Havana
I’ve been to Cuba and Havana twice before, 10 years ago and 3 years ago. I found it to be a strange place, with reliable disorganization, some really bad food, and dancing everywhere. When asked about returning, I said well it’s not my favourite place….but this time it’s a dance trip!
My connecting flight to Toronto was delayed, then the flight to Havana was delayed a couple of hours, so I arrived with two friends around 3:30 am at the airport. After waiting for bags and changing money (Cuban pesos aren’t sold outside of Cuba) we found a handsome cabbie who drove us through strangely dark streets and fallen trees. After entering Havana Vieja (old Havana) and turning through narrow unlit streets, he announced that we had arrived at our destination, a casa that we had had to book for just one night since our residence for the next week wasn’t available. After knocking and phone calls, the casa mama showed up at the door.
We were in the aftermath of a rare tornado that caused great devastation and death in Havana and other parts of Cuba. Power was out over most of the city. My room had no windows so a headlamp was useful. I got to sleep around 5:30 am.
The next morning we went downstairs to where the casa mama was watching a ceremony on tv, with cannons fired, which we could also hear echoing in the streets, since it was just a few blocks away. I learned it was an annual parade celebrating the revolution, and I guess nothing stops celebrating the revolution – that happened in 1959!
After a bit of a discussion about the cost of the rooms (my friends had understood she wanted $75 each, I couldn’t believe it so argued, turned out she wanted $35!) the casa mama led us to Casa Idania, just on the next block, Obispo, the main pedestrian street in Old Havana.
This casa is spectacular compared to any other casa I’ve seen in Cuba, with a casa mama straight out of the fashion pages.
We found lunch at a paladar (locally owned restaurant, as opposed to the government owned restaurants that used to dominate the available options) that had fantastic flavorful food, what a great surprise! Paladares have been allowed to open more in the last few years and have foreign-influenced chefs who are taking Cuba away from the bland food it’s well known for. Goodbye rice and beans.
After lunch we wandered to the Malecon, the seawall, checked out a couple of Hemingway’s famous haunts that are constantly packed with tourists, and then stopped at outdoor spot for a drink. A great salsa band set up right beside us. We hardly noticed the guitar player on his break strumming right behind us since our mojitos and caipirinhas were just a little strong 🙂
Back at the casa we met up with another friend from Gatineau, then walked down the street to a Russian restaurant with an all-girl band for dinner.
I hoped for a shower before bed but…in the aftermath of the tornado, no water in my upstairs room. Not a big deal for showers, since my friends down a floor have working water, but toilets are another thing altogether.
Dance lessons start in the morning!!!!!