• El Salvador

    San Salvador and Ahuachipan

    We left the coast behind and travelled an hour into the gritty heart of San Salvador. We visited the cathedral and crypt of Msgr. Romero, who spoke out against the military regime and was assassinated in 1980 while giving a sermon. He is iconic in this country. Mourners outside the cathedral at his funeral were also shot. That’s just a taste of some of the horrific stories from the civil war, which ended in 1992, 25 years ago. We also saw Rosario church, with a plain structure of concrete but gorgeous light panels inside and art made from the concrete pilings. Here locals were rounded up again the front of…

  • El Salvador

    Playa El Tunco

    I woke in the morning to the same sounds of a blizzard, or pounding surf which is much more relaxing. I wandered outside the long hotel driveway to find that I’m right on one of the two streets in the town. Maybe three, since along the beach might count as one. It’s black sand and rocky. Shrimp for lunch, lobster for dinner, a nap in between, just what I needed. I could watch the sunset and the surfers at high surf time when I walked along the beach, at dusk when all the backpackers were out. Monkey LaLa, the premiere sunset watching bar, is right next to my slightly upscale…

  • El Salvador

    El Salvador

    My day started at 3:30 am, then flights to Calgary and Houston. A 5 hour layover there was not so bad with my Priority Pass lounge card (comes with Royal Bank Avion visa, highly recommended!). The flight to San Salvador was bumpy and noisy, with most of the passengers friendly Salvadoreans with screaming kids. I was talked into checking my carry on bag for the last leg of the trip, and was relieved to no longer have to lug it around, but still had separation issues since I really dislike arriving to no bag. But after customs I quickly found my bag, then exited to the warm still night to…

  • Colombia

    Cartagena

    Morning flight to Cartagena, on the Caribbean coast.  Walking off the plane onto the tarmac was something like putting my head in an oven.  This city in past centuries was the gateway for exporting gold to Spain.  There is an old walled city, and a fortress that was needed to fight off invaders and pirates.  It’s now a cruise ship stop, helping to make it the most expensive city in Columbia.  Only small vehicles can enter through the gates of the old city where we are staying.  It’s touristy here with lots of shops, vendors, horses with carriages, colourful fruit ladies, and working girls at night.  Shops are built into…

  • Colombia

    Medellin

    On to Medellin (pronounced med – e – zheen), through lush landscapes and a winding  mountain road to this city of 4 million set in the valley and surrounding hills.  In the 80’s and 90’s it was known as the most dangerous city in the world, with 7500 murders a year.  In the drug wars with Pablo Escobar leading the way, police, politicians, journalists, and rival cartels were all targets. You wouldn’t guess that today.  We stayed in the El Poblado neighbourhood, the best part of the city, with open air restaurants and bars surrounding a square where everyone grabs a drink and hangs out, complete with buskers and hawkers…

  • Colombia

    Out in the Country

    The next morning we set off for Zipaquiera salt mine and cathedral.  There are only two other salt cathedrals in the world, both in Poland.  Below ground in the working mine we found that the massive cross is hollowed out of the rock.  We ended the day at Villa de Leyva, a preserved old town in the mountains that has become home to the wealthy.  Some of us checked out a nearby fossil museum.  A huge marine dinosaur skeleton was found here by farmers, and the museum has been built around it. On our return to Bogota, we climbed higher into the green mountains through towns where locals live in…

  • Colombia

    Bogota

    In the morning while hoping my bag would arrive I visited the Museo del Oro, known as one of the best museums in South America.  The highlight of my free guided tour (entry fee was about $1) was a tiny gold raft related to the legend of El Dorado, the lost city of gold.  I went to the top of Monseratte, the mountain viewpoint and spiritual retreat within the city.  You can hike to the top, although it’s not recommended since you are likely to be mugged according to the guidebooks.  It would have been fine during the day with lots of people doing it, but I was winded by…

  • Colombia

    Bogota

    I had an evening flight to Toronto where I overnighted, then a stop in Curaçao. It’s an island just off the coast of Venezuela.  I got out of the airport to check it out, and discovered that it’s a Dutch colony, and home of the blue liqueur of course. Another couple of hours to Bogota.   I knew that as a Canadian I had to pay a reciprocity fee of about $70, but I had no idea that it’s only us!  The immigration people were apologetic, two of them asked me if I had another passport (I wish I had dual nationality!)  Signs say it’s required by the Canadian government.  After…

  • Colombia

    Colombia

    I’m leaving for Colombia soon.  My research included this new series from Netflix.  Not sure if that was a good idea!  It’s the story of Pablo Escobar, drug lord, who was one of the richest men in the world in his time.  He helped make Medellin the most dangerous city in the world.  Fortunately he is long gone!

  • Myanmar

    Inle Lake

    We drove down from the cool mountains and visited a Pao tribe farming village.  Some of the women were dressed for a ceremony in wrap around red headdresses and black robes with a panel on the back, to resemble head and tail of a dragon lady of legend.    We’re moving to the eastern part of the country, bordered by China, Thailand, and Laos. On to Pindaya caves, famed for over 8000 Buddhas in its caves.  Some are centuries old, left by pilgrims, some are added by Buddhists from all over the world.  The caves are reached by covered steps up to the mouth. Simply stunning. Atthe base of the…