Belgium

To see the previous parts of this trip – https://lynntowin.ca/rwanda/

Brussels

I made a stop in Brussels to break up the otherwise 30+ hour trip home from Africa. The flight was notably staffed with very tall handsome men. Belgians are among the tallest people in the world, with the average man clocking in at just under six feet tall. We made a stop in Nairobi, where unfortunately the staff changed while cleaners came in.

I arrived in Brussels about 7:45, then stood in a customs line that did not move for around two hours. Once at the front, I could see that the automated entry machines were out of order. I wanted to get going because I had a walking tour booked for 11 am. I got a taxi instead of the convenient train I planned, dropped my bags at my hotel lobby, and found my way to the tour just in time.

Walking tour

We started at the Grand Place, a stunning square lined with what used to be the houses of merchants, some shining with gilded decoration. They are now very expensive apartments.

Other highlights were the famous Mannekin Pis, a tiny statue of a boy peeing in a fountain. He was first made of stone back in the 14th century, while the bronze statue of today has been around since 1619. He often has outfits, for special occasions. Someone is paid to dress him. On some occasions he can pee beer or wine.

We walked to the presidential palace, open to the public in summer when the royal family is away. On our walk we could see that over 50% of the city is green spaces.

We learned about the famed beer, chocolates, and waffles. Two types of beer are unique – lambic sour beer, using an ancient natural fermentation process, and Trappist, made by monks, proceeds go to charities or monasteries.

Dinner and a drink

I went for a very early dinner of mussels, then went to Delirium, a famous bar street serving over 2000 kinds of beer. There I tried a small lambic sour beer that was really good.

I went to bed very very early, since I only had airplane sleep the night before. A couple of hours later, I woke to be violently ill for ten minutes, then got back to sleep immediately. I was blaming the beer, but then heard Anthony Bourdain’s list of things to never eat in a restaurant, and mussels was one of them. You should know the chef to know they are being handled properly to keep them safe from contamination.

Some of the other things on Tony’s list to never order are – brunch (usually leftovers), chicken (it’s boring and can be mishandled), and well done steak (you will be given the worst cuts).

Bruges

I was fine in the morning, so carried on with my plan to see Bruges. Most of the other cities in Belgium are a short train ride away. I was in a central hotel and know the train station was very close but couldn’t figure out where it was due to the construction everywhere. Finally a kind soul led me to the metro, where I had to go underground to access the train station.

The train ride was only about an hour, with a short stop in Ghent. I walked in to the town center to sightsee. Bruges is a Unesco world heritage site, and one of the best preserved medieval towns in Europe. Its main arteries are canals. I took a canal boat tour to see sights and resident swans.

I looked in the expensive souvenir shops for a while, and finally stopped for an amazing chocolate and strawberry waffle.

Once again I proved my advice to always carry local currency. But I ignored my own advice this time. I was only in Europe for two days, I would always be able to use a credit card wouldn’t I? Well the mean woman at the public toilets took only euros in cash. Once again a kind soul saved me, and paid my fare.

I went back to Brussels on the train after three hours in Bruges. I left with the impression of a beautiful tourist trap.

Back to Brussels

Back in Brussels, I wandered away from the center for dinner, finding a great thin crust pizza. Near the Grand Place, shining in the last light of the sun, were homeless people setting up for the night, and assorted sketchy characters.

I wanted to try a Trappist beer to contribute to a monastery or charity, and ended up at the Delerium street again. The beer on tap that I tried tasted like something I made in my basement many years ago.

That was not a great ending to my amazing Masai Mara and Gorillas adventure, so I should probably give Belgium another chance sometime.

I left for home the next day. The airport was a great place to find chocolate souvenirs!