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Copan, Honduras
El Salvador is bordered by Honduras and Guatemala on the north. To get to Honduras, we first crossed a border into Guatemala, from there to Honduras. This border was much easier and quicker than the closest one taking us directly to Honduras. Semi trucks were lined up for miles before the border, drivers sleeping on the pavement. Everything in the trucks is checked for drugs but we got through quickly. We arrived in Copan, a pretty town conveniently located walking distance from major Mayan ruins. We went for dinner to a restaurant where the waitresses carry drinks and food on their heads. A few of us carried on to another…
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Suchitoto
In the morning most of my group went on a walking tour of the town but I skipped it so I could take advantage of the pool. After my first time in I noticed a strange looking bird circling the pool, dipping in for drinks. It then went to a corner of the building and hung itself up. It was a bat! I went back in the pool and it dive bombed me. I yelped and it flew off. Then I noticed a huge hawk flying to a nest nearby, then circling, ending up in a nearby tree. When it turned sideways I could see its long turkey like neck.…
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The road to Suchitoto
Breakfast with an omelet, pupusa the local specialty, and a huge coffee was $3. On the road, we stopped at a Mayan site with pyramid from 800 BC, stopped for a lake view, then visited Joya de Ceren, known as the Pompeii of the Americas. It’s a town covered by lava around the 7th century. There were some animal skeletons discovered but it seems the townspeople had enough warning to get out. The home of the shaman was the most interesting. At the site we saw a torogoz, the colourful national bird with amazing tail feathers. We arrived in Suchitoto to our gorgeous hotel with a pool! And view of…
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La Ruta de las Flores
Ahuachipan is the start of the route of flowers. We hopped on a chicken bus, so named because everything including chickens can be on them. Vendors selling everything from candies to headphones jump on and off the crowded buses. We visited three towns, checking out markets and churches.One bus was the best, the lady across from me was seated with two live chickens that she kept watered. I don’t think I had ever been on a chicken bus that actually had chickens! The last town was the prettiest, with cobbled streets and colourful murals painted on most buildings. Making it back to Ahuachipan, we ventured out to a pizza place.…
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San Salvador and Ahuachipan
We left the coast behind and travelled an hour into the gritty heart of San Salvador. We visited the cathedral and crypt of Msgr. Romero, who spoke out against the military regime and was assassinated in 1980 while giving a sermon. He is iconic in this country. Mourners outside the cathedral at his funeral were also shot. That’s just a taste of some of the horrific stories from the civil war, which ended in 1992, 25 years ago. We also saw Rosario church, with a plain structure of concrete but gorgeous light panels inside and art made from the concrete pilings. Here locals were rounded up again the front of…
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Playa El Tunco
I woke in the morning to the same sounds of a blizzard, or pounding surf which is much more relaxing. I wandered outside the long hotel driveway to find that I’m right on one of the two streets in the town. Maybe three, since along the beach might count as one. It’s black sand and rocky. Shrimp for lunch, lobster for dinner, a nap in between, just what I needed. I could watch the sunset and the surfers at high surf time when I walked along the beach, at dusk when all the backpackers were out. Monkey LaLa, the premiere sunset watching bar, is right next to my slightly upscale…
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El Salvador
My day started at 3:30 am, then flights to Calgary and Houston. A 5 hour layover there was not so bad with my Priority Pass lounge card (comes with Royal Bank Avion visa, highly recommended!). The flight to San Salvador was bumpy and noisy, with most of the passengers friendly Salvadoreans with screaming kids. I was talked into checking my carry on bag for the last leg of the trip, and was relieved to no longer have to lug it around, but still had separation issues since I really dislike arriving to no bag. But after customs I quickly found my bag, then exited to the warm still night to…
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Cartagena
Morning flight to Cartagena, on the Caribbean coast. Walking off the plane onto the tarmac was something like putting my head in an oven. This city in past centuries was the gateway for exporting gold to Spain. There is an old walled city, and a fortress that was needed to fight off invaders and pirates. It’s now a cruise ship stop, helping to make it the most expensive city in Columbia. Only small vehicles can enter through the gates of the old city where we are staying. It’s touristy here with lots of shops, vendors, horses with carriages, colourful fruit ladies, and working girls at night. Shops are built into…
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Medellin
On to Medellin (pronounced med – e – zheen), through lush landscapes and a winding mountain road to this city of 4 million set in the valley and surrounding hills. In the 80’s and 90’s it was known as the most dangerous city in the world, with 7500 murders a year. In the drug wars with Pablo Escobar leading the way, police, politicians, journalists, and rival cartels were all targets. You wouldn’t guess that today. We stayed in the El Poblado neighbourhood, the best part of the city, with open air restaurants and bars surrounding a square where everyone grabs a drink and hangs out, complete with buskers and hawkers…
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Out in the Country
The next morning we set off for Zipaquiera salt mine and cathedral. There are only two other salt cathedrals in the world, both in Poland. Below ground in the working mine we found that the massive cross is hollowed out of the rock. We ended the day at Villa de Leyva, a preserved old town in the mountains that has become home to the wealthy. Some of us checked out a nearby fossil museum. A huge marine dinosaur skeleton was found here by farmers, and the museum has been built around it. On our return to Bogota, we climbed higher into the green mountains through towns where locals live in…